My Mother's Body
Source of torment, source of desire, how can I bring it back to life?
By Mary Gordon
My mother was one of the afflicted. She was stricken, at the
age of three with polio. I wonder if she had any bodily
memory of running, of walking without labor, without anxiety:
of movement as a joy. There is a picture of her, dressed to the nines
in a white lace Edwardian outfit. She is trying to hide her crutch behind
her body; if you didn’t notice it, you might think at first she was normal.
Until you saw the right leg, thinner than the other, and the right shoe,
built higher than its mate.
Two of her eight siblings were stricken in subsequent polio epidemics.
The merciful wing of history has brushed over our fearful memory of the
terror, each summer, that one would be struck down. No more a commonplace:
children in leg braces. Absent from the lexicon, the words so easily
to hand, so dreadful: iron lung. Polio is no longer real to my children’s
generation, although carelessness or suspicion about vaccines has caused
its continuance as a plague in parts of the developing world. My mother
insisted that I be among the first to be vaccinated; she woke me at dawn so
I would be at the head of the line for the first dosages of what she saw as
the sacrament of Dr. Salk.
One of her legs, the right one, was six inches shorter than the other. She
walked with a pronounced limp; she couldn’t, for all the years I knew her,
walk more than a block at a time. She wore one built-up shoe, really a boot,
and she couldn’t take a step unless she was wearing that shoe. Stairs were
a difficulty. A fall was a disaster. Her body was misshapen, asymmetrical. A
body that was a problem, always. Never, a gift.
Affliction: something suffered, something done to someone from which
they have no recourse, no defense. I like it much better than other words that
can be used to describe what happened to my mother. Crippled, handicapped,
disabled. Because the accent falls not on the body itself but upon its fate.
Of course there were other aspects of my mother’s body that were free
of her affliction: her beautiful hands and arms, dappled with freckles like
the skin of a young apple, her beautiful hair, her large gray-green eyes and
high cheekbones, her clear smooth skin without wrinkles almost to the end,
never once in my memory marked by a single blemish, no not one. Her
enviable skin. It was called her “complexion.” Yes, it was envied. People said
to my mother, “I envy your complexion.”
And other things, connected to the body but emanating from it, and
desirable, a desirable feature like beautiful breasts or long legs. For example,
in my mother’s case, her voice, charming, lively, robust, jocular, persuasive,
sure, her laughter, a laugh you could identify in a dark movie
house, a laugh that made everyone want to laugh. Women who didn’t like
my mother criticized her laugh, called it unseemly, something that drew
improper or undo attention to itself, as if she had worn a dress that was too
tight or too low cut: revealing something that a proper woman knows well
how to cover up.
How is it possible to speak of a mother’s body?
Possible, that is, without betrayal.
And if it is possible, is it permissible?
To speak of it as if it were not a body, but something that could be
turned into a work of art?
The body of the afflicted mother. The body of the work of art. The
impossible desire for shapeliness, for an intact form. For harmony, radiance,
wholeness. My mother’s body was unharmonious. But isn’t it possible
to bypass harmony, bypass proportion, in the search for, if not wholeness,
then radiance? The daughter, born of the mother’s body, looks at it for
information, curses, clues. How can a daughter talk about her mother’s
body? Especially when she is a writer.
I know there are a number of ways that I don’t want to talk. A number
of ways I don’t want to write. I don’t want to pity myself for being a child
born of a body such as my mother’s. And I don’t want to describe my
mother’s body. Not anymore. Not now. I did it once. But she was living then.
Now she is dead.
In the last years of her life, she was, in her wretchedness, my tormenter.
Her body tortured me: the sight of it, its smell. Living, she was a torturer,
and now, among the dead, she is entirely innocent.
There was nothing I could do to stop the torment while she lived. While
I was in charge of her; in the 11 years I visited her in the nursing home once
a week; while I had to supervise her care. Her presence was unbearable. The
sight of her blackening teeth, rotting down to stumps, her hair, scraped
down almost to her scalp—above all the smell of her—made me panic,
made me want to cover my face with my hands and cry out, “I can’t, I can’t,
I can’t do this.” It made me want to run in some cold wind, some scourg-
ing rain until I could lose the sight of her, the smell of her, until I could
fall, exhausted. Too tired to think. To remember that the body I once loved
was now the source of hatred. Except when I loved her for her helplessness.
Then I loved her, to the point of weeping unstoppable, wrenching tears.
Now that she is no longer among the living, I can
miss her but the tears come lightly; they do not
tear me apart. There is only missing. No desire to
escape. No punishment, given or received.
Is it only because it no longer torments me
that I no longer feel the need to describe my
mother’s body? Was my need to describe her body
only a need for punishment? Now I feel a real
aversion for the prospect. Now she is dead, the
thought of describing her body makes me feel
like Ham, the son of Noah, the betraying son.
This is my understanding of the story of Noah
and his sons.
After his long labor, toward the end of the time
on the Ark, Noah drank. Drank himself unto
drunkenness. What was that like? What did he
look like before he fell asleep? What was he wearing
before his nakedness? Did he stagger, did he
slur his words, did he curse the fates, the flood,
his nagging wife, his disappointing children? Did
he pity himself for his responsibility, for being
born a just man in the time of the flood? Is this what enraged Ham: the
admired father, chosen by God, all along a fraud? Not really a just man, just
someone waiting to turn into a drunk. All along, a beast without the dignity
of the pairs taken aboard. I, father, will expose your nakedness. I will look
at what you have been all along, what you have always really been. If I don’t look,
there will be no one to witness this truth. Isn’t truth telling a kind of love?
He knows that it is not. He knows that it is hatred. Hatred and perhaps
desire: the desire of the eyes—is it somehow connected to sex? It could be,
but it doesn’t need to be.
He sees what he sees.
He tells his brothers.
His brothers will not look. They enter the chamber backwards, a cloak
thrown over their shoulders, covering their heads. Not looking, they fling
the cloak onto the naked body of their father.
The good sons.
They have not seen.
They have done the work of not seeing.
Someone had to do that work.
As someone had to do the work of seeing.
But supposing Ham had been an only child. Which work would he have
chosen? The work of seeing, or the work of not seeing, the work of refusing
to see?
He would have had to choose.
And then he would have had to make another choice: to speak or to be
silent.
For the writer, this choice is also possible. Although we tell ourselves that
it is impossible, a betrayal of our vocation.
But silence is a perfectly honorable choice. More honorable, because no
one knows about it.
The most dishonorable choice: to speak and then to confess one’s own
(superior) knowledge of the dishonor of speaking.
I know that this is what I am doing now.
I seem unable to give up the impulse to say some things about my
mother that seem to me true. And in order to do that, I must describe her
body. Because only in describing her body—as something in space, as something
that moved through space (awkwardly, uneasily), as something that
was seen in space (misshapen, unpleasing)—can the nature, the effect of
her affliction be understood. But for whom is such an understanding necessary?
The answer, of course, is only myself.
For a little while, I convinced myself that I would speak about my
mother’s body for the good of others. For the good of other children of the
afflicted. This new (false) conviction began when a friend of mine told me
that her husband’s father was the child of a polio victim and that his sense
of his body, like mine, was greatly affected by this. She said it would be an
important thing to write about, that no one had written about it.
I will do it, I said, donning my heroic cloak. I had forgotten that I had
already done it. Written about my mother’s body. That my friend hadn’t
read what I had written is another matter. I simply could have directed her
to the book I had already written, the book in which I wrote about my
mother’s afflicted body, about being the child of such a mother. I wrote
about my mother’s body 11 years ago when I was writing about my father.
So I was writing about my father’s wife, my father’s widow. A living woman.
When I wrote about her then I said: “My mother is eighty-six and something has
broken or hardened and worn out. When she hasn’t combed her hair, when she has
lost a tooth she won’t have attended to, when she won’t cut or file her nails or change
her clothes she is distressing to look at.”
When I wrote about my mother’s body I used the word rot. Many readers
found that shocking. I told myself I used it because it was the truth. Her
body was rotting. She had allowed it to rot; she wanted it to. She forced me
to deal with her rotting body because she hadn’t taken off her high-laced
boots for three months. I found this out when I took her to the doctor for
a checkup and he told her to take her boots off. She told him she hadn’t
taken them off for three months, and he made her leave the office. He said
the smell was not one he could allow in a professional office. In his office,
he said, there could not be the smell of rot.
When we got home, I had to take her shoes off; she refused to do it herself.
I knelt at her bedside, as if I were saying my night prayers, unlaced her
shoes and took them off. The smell was overwhelming. I had to hold my
breath so as not to take it in. And the look of them: the leprous flesh I had
dreamed of martyring myself to as a pious girl. I told her I had to fill a basin
of water and while the water was running, I vomited into the toilet. I came
back, bathed and dried her feet. Then I phoned an agency to hire a nurse to
tend to her feet every day. I could do it once, but I couldn’t endure the possibility
of having to do it again and again. The possibility of that made the idea
of life unbearable. Made me literally long for death. The idea of death, for me,
was preferable to the task of continually tending my mother’s rotting feet.
Rot is one of the works of death. My mother had made it happen. She
had made it happen by not taking off her shoes. She couldn’t explain why
she didn’t take off her shoes. She said it was too much trouble.
I used the word rot because it was the truth. My mother’s feet were rotting.
Did I have to use it? What kind of daughter uses the word rot in relation
to her mother? What is the line between truth telling and punishment?
How could I want to punish my mother for something that was so clearly a
sign of dementia? Was it simply the victim’s impulse to take any turn that
might occur to punish the one who had tortured? For whatever reason, at
whatever time.
Now my mother is a skeleton, or ash. All those sites of attention, rage,
despair gone now. Where did they go? Were they vaporized into the air?
Absorbed into the earth? The details of the bodies of the dead turn abstract
once they are no longer in the world. Abstract, therefore no longer a cause
of rage. Sorrow, rather, or regret. The burning rash of rage turning to the
dull tumor of sorrow.
In the days that I had to think about her uncut nails, in the days when
her life consisted of sitting with her head in her hands in a stupor, a stupor
punctuated by periods of anxiety, I prayed for her death. But I must remind
myself that my wanting her death, even praying for it, did not end her life.
I wasn’t even with her when her life ended. I do not now wish her alive. Not
the mother who had become entirely wretched.
My last duty toward her was to choose the clothes she would be buried
in. Her own good clothes had long since disappeared. I chose an outfit of
my own, one that she would look good in. A black crepe blouse with a Fortuny
collar, a black silk pleated skirt. Around her neck a string of pearls.
Dead, she looked beautiful. Dead, she had got back her elegance. I was glad
for my part in giving it back to her.
I do not want the wretched mother back again in this life. But there is
another one, desired, and desirable. A body I once yearned to be near. I
once saw in the foreground of an Italian Renaissance painting a cup with
the inscription “Alas, I yearned exceedingly.” As a child, there were times
when my entire body was a vessel of yearning for her. When she would leave
me, sending me somewhere, for a day, a week’s vacation, a summer with
some member of her family who was meant to be doing us both a good turn
by separating us. In the first years after my father’s death, I felt separation
from her body like a new wound on top of the old, mortal one of his death.
But even before his death, I loved sitting on her lap; I loved putting my head
on her firm springy bosom. I was proud of her in her suits and hats when
she left the house for work. The mothers of my friends slopped around at
home all day in housedresses. Carelessly coiffed. Not a starched handkerchief
among them, or a gold compact, or a purse with the clasp in the shape
of a snake. This is the mother I want to meet again: the mother that I
yearned for. I want to go back where I can meet that mother. Back past affliction,
age, disease. This is the trick I want to pull: the trick of bringing the
desirable mother back to life. The trick of Resurrection.
But I have no idea how I might go about it. Or if it is wrong to describe
a miracle as a trick.
II
As I am thinking about this, I travel to London to visit a friend whose
lover of 40 years has just died. In the duty-free shop on the way home,
I spot a display advertising the perfume my mother always wore for “special
occasions.” Arpège by Lanvin. The young saleswoman is thin, in a short
black skirt, black shirt, and black pumps with something called kitten heels.
I ask if I can try a sample of Arpège. She sprays it on a little card and tells
me to rub the card on my wrists. I do. I walk around with it. To see if I can
bear wearing my mother’s scent. To see if I can bear being my mother.
At first, the scent is sharper than I remember, less accommodating, less
friendly, less sweet. And yet even as a child I valued it because as a scent it
was mature, unapproachable. It was comprehensible, like the Hindu idea
of God, only by what it was not: ungirlish, unfloral, unfruity, neither of the
garden nor the woodland, an invented scent rather than a discovered one,
composed deliberately rather than come upon (accidentally, fortuitously),
an artifact, a product and a sign of city life, not worn in the daylight, or worn
casually, but something hoarded, brought out for an occasion, the seriousness
of which was marked by the very act of its having been brought out.
When my mother wanted to use Arpège she would cover the opening of
the bottle with her index finger, tip it back once, twice, then press her moistened
finger first to her wrists, then behind her ears. Then she would hold
a linen handkerchief against the bottle’s opening and tip it back until a
drop or two wet the cloth. She would put the cloth into her special handbag
for evenings out, and the more vivid scent that the cloth had absorbed
would be taken into the leather.
When she was away at work, or out at a
meeting, I would go into her drawer, open
her purse and put my nose close, close
against the leather, breathing it in, the animal
leather smell an undercurrent still
against the sophisticated scent that had
become one with its essence, with its texture:
the absorption transforming them
both. So I would smell the leather, then
the handkerchief, and then, in a fit of terrible
daring, open the bottle to smell the
perfume itself. This led, once, to something
terrible. I opened the bottle and
knocked it over and the perfume ate
through the varnish of my mother’s
dresser, destroying its smoothness, leaving a
pocked, scratched, fuzzy, denuded surface,
instead of a varnished patina. The texture of
the dresser top was the texture of the skin of an
uncultivated peach. In all the years my mother
had the dresser (30, perhaps, until she moved
into a house that I bought for her and it was
given away), nothing was ever done to make
the dresser presentable once again. What
could have been done? I always believed that
nothing could be done. My horror when I
saw the perfume eating away at the surface
was the horror of despair. A despair at the inexorability of
physical destruction. My conviction that nothing, nothing could be done
to make it better, to repair it, was borne out. My mother’s fury was negligible
measured against my despair. Something in the world had ruined the
beauty of something, as polio had ruined the beauty of my mother’s body,
and I was its minion, its agent, its stooge. From then on, the notion of the
physical world’s inexorability was mine.
But the accident of the perfume did not make me stop loving the perfume.
And believing that this was a sign of the best way of being female that
was open to me—and worth a tremendous amount, although I had no idea
what the currency might be, what might have to be given up.
But I don’t want to be thinking about this, a memory of ruin, of sorrow:
this is everything I’m trying to get away from: the sorrowful mother, the
ruined mother. I want to reach the desirable mother, the mother who is the
site of pleasure. I want an alternative to biography. To history. My own and
hers. I want something larger, something outside the circle I have been traveling
the circumference of, like a horse with blinders, the horse in Joyce’s
“The Dead” who keeps traveling around the statue of King William because
he can’t break his habits from being the workhorse at the mill.
I want to be outside myself, and her. Or outside myself but with her and
her perfume. So I decide to learn about the perfume as a research project.
That will take it out of the cramped domain of my own life. A person familiar
with computers in spite of myself, I begin by googling Arpège. Google, a
word my mother would never have heard of, that I hadn’t heard of until
after her death.
The first site I travel to is offering the perfume for sale. It tells me that
Arpège was launched in 1927 as a soft floral fragrance for women. It
describes its scent as “powdery floral.” It elaborates: “a luxurious, gentle, floral
fragrance, combining honeysuckle, jasmine, roses and orange blossoms,
accents of vanilla and sandalwood. It is recommended for romantic wear.”
I see that I was wrong about its being unfloral. All those different flowers,
hinting of hot climes, tropical even: honeysuckle, jasmine, orange blossoms,
but domesticated, familiarized by two of them: the vanilla and the
rose. But what do they mean by powdery? Powdery implies a certain dryness,
a certain enviable dryness. Absorptive. A civilizing element: it calms
things down.
The business of the site, though, is selling the perfume. Whoever created
the site must understand that Arpège has been absent from the larger imagination
of fragrance for a number of years. They are too smart to try to sweep
this under the rug; they make a charming tale of it; the passage of time, its
erasures, become something that can be talked about. “This one your grandmother
probably wore in her younger days. Naughty thing she is sometimes.
Arpège is one of those classic fragrances that have made many a man go weak
at the knees. Who says grandma should have all the fun?”
What is this as a marketing strategy? To whom is it meant to appeal, and
what might the appeal be? Obviously, to someone younger than I, someone
more obviously in the sexual running. My mother wore Arpège. But they’re
trying to sell it to someone whose grandmother wore the scent. Someone
my daughter’s age. As is so frequently the case now, I see that I am too old
to be the target audience.
And what glamour is being invoked? Naughty granny—naughty in the
’20s, the madcap ’30s. White art deco bedrooms, Irene Dunne or Carole
Lombard in lounging pajamas? Secrets kept from the naughty granny’s
daughter, the potential buyer’s mother. (Me?) A drama of exclusion. A suggestion
that respectability can be kept, that its price is not the price of pleasure.
That a daring past is something that can be got away with. That the
knees of the powerful man, the man who pays for your perfume, can turn
to rubber. And no one will be worse off. You will make a good marriage
(maybe not to the man with the rubbery knees) but at least you will have
children, grandchildren.
In invoking the glamorous grandmother of the ’20s and ’30s, I am open-
ing a historical gap as large—80 years—as if I had, in the 1950s, evoked a
glamorous image of the belle époque. This seems wonderful to me, an
encouragement to my plan for finding an alternative to history, to biographical
fact.
A second Google site reminds me of the advertising slogan that went with
the perfume: “Promise her anything, but give her Arpège.” What did the
admen have in mind with this one? That the purchase of this scent would
allow, encourage, validate false statements? That
as long as you gave this bottle to your honey, you
could swear to marry her next month, leave your
wife next year, give up men, or booze or horses?
Clearly, the message is pitched toward the man,
because who would want to be deceived? What
woman longs to be a dupe? In failing to understand
this, am I failing to understand something
important in the history of women? The
acceptance of deception. The faked orgasm.
The faked pregnancy. Perfume itself covering
the animal truth. Does my inability to enroll
myself in this ancient brigade mean I have no
right to wear the perfume? That I should
count myself instead as part of the unglamorous
sisterhood: bluestockings, do-gooders,
unembellished, not a drop or particle of
makeup on their natural skins, content with
whatever God gave them, out to do God’s
work, to tell the truth, the whole truth, nothing
but the truth. A life without glamour. I
never wanted that. Even when I thought I would be a nun, I
imagined myself glamorous in my habit. My mother, buying
her suits, her face powder, her Arpège, insisted on being a
part of the duplicitous world of female pleasure. As do I.
After a while I get it: it’s not that I’m against deception.
But I want the deception coming from me. I don’t mind
deceiving, but I don’t want to be deceived. I don’t want anything
promised to me. It’s not that I want nothing. I want something.
Many things. But not anything. As If I had no choice. No scent, however desirable,
is worth that. Especially when I could get the perfume for myself.
Because of my mother, I always imagined myself a wage earner. Never
dependent on a man for necessaries or for luxuries. No, never that.
Simultaneously proud and self-pitying, I buy the perfume for myself.
When I turn to the site called “Fascination Perfumery” I feel a shock; it
tells me something I ought to have known but never knew, that the symbol
on the bottle of Arpège is a symbol of mother and daughter.
I go to my own bottle. There it is; a mother and a daughter. The mother
in an extravagant robe and turban absolutely dwarfing the child. Who
kneels at her feet. Why did I never notice this? Perhaps because it isn’t an
obvious mother and daughter; the mother, so huge, so exotic, and the
daughter, so insignificant, not on her mother’s lap, not in her arms, but at
her feet. Overwhelmed.
I determine to track down the history of this image. Where did it come
from? Whose idea was it? What was it meant to evoke, to represent? I turn
once more to Google; I look up Jeanne Lanvin and find a French site,
untranslated.
I am astonished to learn that her career as a couturière was derived from
her life as a mother, from her adoration of her daughter, Marguerite. I am
told this even before I am told the details of her life, even before I learn
that Jeanne Lavin was born in 1867 (in America, the Civil War is only just
over). She was the oldest of 11 children. Her father was an unsuccessful
journalist. (So we have something in common, Jeanne Lanvin and I.) At 13
she became a milliner, but her career took off when her clients saw the
extraordinary garments she had made for her beloved daughter, coveted
them first for their daughters, then for themselves. Adapting the lavish
details—broderie anglaise, exotic fabrics—that she had used for her daughter’s
clothes made her one of the most successful couturiers in Paris. It’s
almost as if she didn’t mean it; she was just trying to express her love for
her daughter. Her brief marriage to Marguerite’s father, an Italian, is barely
mentioned. As if everyone knows it didn’t really count.
As a gift for her daughter’s 30th birthday, she created the perfume
Arpège, the name created by the daughter, a singer herself, who upon
smelling the perfume said, “on dirait un arpège.” It’s like an arpeggio. The
site goes on to say that despite her passionate but suffocating love, “amour
passioné mais étouffant,” mother and daughter were in the end, “éloignées”—
estranged, distant, separated.
I am desperate to learn more about the Lanvins, but the well of the Internet
has run dry. Or not quite: I go to Amazon and find that I can order from
Paris a biography of Jeanne Lanvin
I wait six weeks for the book to arrive.
How did it happen that the mother and daughter ended up éloignées?
When, on the back cover of the biography, we are told that “Le nom de Lanvin
baptise un bleu mythique et orne l’image devenue célébrissime, de la femme à l’enfant,
image que les flaçons précieux d’Arpège multiplient à l’infini.” A new shade
of blue, baptized, the image of the mother and the child, gilded, multiplied
into infinity. The infinite multiplication of maternal love. Sold then, not
bought though, by the daughter, who will flee from her mother, returning
only after her death to head the corporation, the House of Lanvin.
But even before the estrangement, the daughter rejected the name her
mother gave her, changing herself from Marguerite to Marie-Blanche. Mar-
guerite makes a glamorous marriage into a noble family: she becomes the
Comtesse de Polignac. The count takes his place in the history of impoverished
noblemen, supported by the wife’s money, earned through commerce.
Only this time, it is the wife’s mother, rather than her father, whose
business sense turned straw to gold.
Marguerite’s husband was not the first Polignac to trade his title for
money; his uncle married the ugly American heiress Winnaretta Singer
(sewing machine heiress: the machine Mme Lanvin started her career
with), who was one of the models for Proust’s Mme Verdurin. Marguerite
had a minor career as a singer of baroque opera; she was involved in bringing
back into vogue the works of Monteverdi. But most importantly, she was
a patron of the arts, a generous friend to artists. Most especially Poulenc.
And she commissioned her other good friend Edouard Vuillard to paint
both her portrait and her mother’s.
I see Vuillard’s name and I get a shock as unsettling as the one I got when
I discovered that the symbol of Arpège was a mother and a daughter. For
many years, Vuillard has been my favorite painter, the one I think of as
mine. I have written about him; I have made pilgrimages to see his work. I
chose one of his paintings to serve as the jacket art for my novel Men and
Angels. My legacy to my children: a Vuillard pastel, an extravagant expenditure
made before I even had children, an expenditure that some people
I knew considered foolish. My Vuillard, whose blues and whites are the sign
for me, the map for me, of everything I want to accomplish in my work, this
painter who appears in Proust, Proust whom I begin each day’s work by
reading, how can it be that he is connected to Arpège, therefore to the body
of my mother?
The web of accident, the web of association, a web spanning years, class,
circumstance. Is it a web or a stream? Or a path that I have discovered, or
have I just invented it? If there is a stream, or a path, in what direction does
it lead? I think it is a stream, taking up whatever falls into it, whatever borders
it. A stream with leaves, weeds, Proust’s water lilies that approach the
shore, stretch out, retract, return again. What is the source of this stream?
Does it begin with the body of my mother, perfumed, with the artifacts
(handbag, handkerchief, saturated with the scent) my mother carried into
the world as she entered it on my father’s arm?
Yes it begins there, but where is the next step? Because I know what the
last step is. A desire to be reading, writing, looking at (but not living in) the
world suggested by the smell. The world of Vuillard, of Proust, of Poulenc.
A world not quite ready to give up the 19th century: the complications, the
embellishments, the difficult, elaborate forms. A world not quite ready to
take up the modern world, the one perfumed by Chanel, Mme Lanvin’s
rival and nemesis.
The first step; the love of my mother’s perfume; the last, the desire for
the world it suggested. But what about the second step out of my mother’s
arms, the one that allowed me to imagine that I could approach the world
of Proust and Vuillard as a fellow creator? The world not just of the apprehension
of art but the creation of it. Because I am not the subject of the
portrait but its creator. Both my father and I have written poems to my
mother. No one has ever written a poem about me.
Vuillard and I are joined here, here in this writing that I make, because
of a connection forged by something that he made: portraits of both Jeanne
Lanvin and her daughter. He paints Jeanne Lanvin in her office at her desk,
a worker, an elder (she is 66). Her ledgers, her pencil holder are given the
same loving attention as the fabric of her dress, the jewels around her
neck, the bust on her desk, the dog at her feet. He says that in this painting
he wanted to get les vérités, les sévéritiés of green and gray. Verities, severities.
Is a kind of harshness the only way to a kind of truth? The working
woman’s styptic refusal of romance. If someone wanted to paint a portrait
of my mother, he would have been wise to paint her at her desk. Where she
was happiest. Where she was most at home.
The portrait of the Comtesse is much less satisfactory, and Vuillard was
much less satisfied with it. Marguerite is sitting on her daybed idle, pampered,
a figure in a drawing-room comedy: her face unformed, so unlike
the face of her mother: the face of a tragic Roman emperor.
Vuillard was working on the painting of La Comtesse de Polignac when
he got the news that his mother was dying. He put down the brush that was
creating, on canvas, the face of the daughter (whose body is on the bottle
my mother tipped to fragrance her body) and ran to the deathbed of his
mother. He described it in his journal:
find Mama in her armchair. . . . Ever more painful moments, “it’s too much,
it hurts too much, it’s in my back”; soaked under her towel, let me lose consciousness,
moans; long wait while Marie fetches Pantopon; drowsiness at
last calms her; sit beside her hold her hand under the sheet; squeeze it from
time to time; feel the pulse beating, then lose it, same state remainder of
the day; cold sweats, wipe her forehead; eau de cologne; handkerchief on
her head; asks me to put some scent on my beard; my good little mother;
says I’m not good I’m wicked; convulsion, responds less and less to kisses;
afraid to move . . . she’s very bad; she’s going to die; her back turned; I see
her glassy gaze fixed sightlessly on the ceiling, the mouth twisted to one
side; hand clenched once more over her stomach; and I hold her head still,
my fingers near her eyes which I gently close after Parvu has raised a lid.
Acceptance.
Vuillard said that his mother was his muse. He painted her over and over.
She was the mother who made the boiled beef that the exhausted artists
came to at the end of a hungry day. When he took photographs, he left her
in charge of his negatives; they would sit, stewing in a soup bowl and she,
vigilant, would turn them (as she turned her marinating beef?) at the
proper time. Dying, she wants perfume. On her son’s beard. The fragrant
body: not the mother’s but the son’s. Many people believe that after she
died, he considered his life over.
In my family, my mother was the photographer. There are only a few pictures
of me and her; many more of me with my father, my grandmother. I
remember the little red dot at the back of the Brownie; the excitement, the
anxiety: don’t open the camera: the film might be exposed. Exposed. To
light: therefore ruin. At the end of her life, Vuillard’s mother’s degeneration
was exposed by her son. Disturbing images. In the last photographs she
is toothless, bald. She is washing her feet, paring her toenails. Did he have
the right to photograph her like that? Vuillard and I, the exposing children,
Noah’s bad sons: saying that art is an excuse for exposure.
Was Vuillard enraged at his mother as I was enraged at mine? But for
what? It would seem she never failed him. How I envy Vuillard saying “My
mother is my muse.” How I envy Vuillard the mother who was always cooking
the boiled beef so that his house was the one friends wanted to come
to. How I envy Vuillard a mother who kept an eye on his negatives, turned
his negatives in a soup bowl.
But Mme Vuillard: Did she have wit that crackled, sparkled like champagne?
No, she was always an old woman.
Could she have made anyone go weak in the knees?
Not as her son painted her: the only mother we know.
But there is another mother, another life, the life of the woman not a
mother, a woman who had a life before she was a mother, a life lived apart
from the artist child. We have no knowledge of that life. Because the mother
is known only through the artist child. And he or she sees only what he or
she wants to see, tells only what he or she wants told.
The mother as victim of the artist child.
III
I spray the perfume on my wrist. I put my nose to it: by it I mean both the
scent and my own skin. It is always a shameful thing to be doing, at best
a foolish thing: smelling yourself. Usually you are checking to see that you
don’t smell bad. It’s nothing you ever want to be seen doing. Yet I want to
be doing it all the time. Walking down the street, in order that I can smell
the flesh of my wrist, I pretend I am looking at my watch. But I am looking
for my mother. For my desired mother, my desirable mother (the one who
made my father go weak in the knees?). I can be with her again: the one
with the beautiful skin and hands and arms. The mother I never want to
leave. The one I can’t bear to be separated from for one second. The one
I yearn for when I’m not with her, the one whose proximity I weep for: at
school, at the houses of my relatives. My beguiling mother.
With a good smell: there is the desire never to stop, but not the conviction
that smelling something good is enough to be doing with one’s life,
one’s day. But why? We think that looking at a beautiful painting or landscape,
listening to beautiful music, the sound of the wind or the waves, is a
fine thing to be doing with our time.
But smelling?—no, it doesn’t seem to be a good enough thing to be
doing with time.
Is it because it is too animal?
The worst thing you can say to someone: you smell bad. You stink.
The animal in paradise. Peaceful. Among good smells.
Paradise is peace. Is safety.
But with the added ingredient: stimulation. But a stimulation that isn’t
frustrated. Not satiation: Rather, a stimulation that never loses the edge of
its desire, its desire for more, but there is no fear of disappointment.
With a good smell: no disappointment.
A good smell is paradise.
A bad one is Hades.
Paradise: the desired place. Never to leave.
Hades: the compulsion to escape.
Always present in paradise: the fear of leaving, of being forced to leave,
banishment, the angel with the flaming sword.
And what is the way back into the garden? It is necessary to believe that
the banishment is final, even if the banishment was self-imposed.
Must it be the way of language, or the flesh? Can’t it be some way that is
beyond time, beyond words? The way of the beautiful smell.
I can do it. Whenever I want I can open the perfume. I can put it on my
own body. I can be with her in the smell. But what is a smell? Rousseau says
it is the sense of the imagination. My imagination turns a smell into a place,
a place where I can be with her.
But how can it be a place? There is no place to put your foot. Nowhere
to step, nothing to step down on, nowhere to sit or to lie down. Nothing to
swim through. To fly through. It could almost be a place of flight, a place
of falling. But flying to where? Falling from what? To what? To the past?
From the present to a future paradise, dreamt but ungratified. A smell is
of the body, but if it is paradise it must go beyond the body. But to where?
When you are in the place that is the smell, you don’t believe that you will
ever be anywhere else. Because to be in a smell is to be in an eternal present.
Like the mind of God. Eternal desire, eternal horror. In the presence
of my mother, or my mothers—the beguiling one, the repulsive one—I
believed, fully, that time held no sway. I would be always where I was.
Trapped. Eternally. Or in paradise.
At the end of her life, my mother’s scent was a combination of a powder—
called Shower to Shower—and the urine that she tried to cover up
with the powder she sprinkled between her legs. From the elegant handkerchiefs
and purse to the stained drawers. This was the trajectory of my
mother’s life, if you trace the trajectory of scent. The trajectory that moves
from beguilement to recoil, from desire to horror.
In one of the more scientific studies of fragrance that I pursue, I am told
that in perfumes, the top notes are floral, but the middle notes “are made
from resinous materials which have odours not unlike those of sex steroids,
while the base notes are mammalian sex attractants with a distinctly urinous
or fecal odour.” So is it really the same thing, the smell of urine, the smell
of perfume, only we are, unlike animals, over-refined: unable to trace the
common source? When I try to type the word urinous, the computer automatically
changes it to ruinous. It is true: when my mother’s dominant scent
was urinous, it was ruinous of my love for her.
I want to go back, beyond that. Through the sense of the imagination.
To that old place. The garden.
The paradise of with. Of a yearning that is satisfied and yet never used
up: there will always be more, more yearning, more scent, and you will never
go hungry, or be disappointed, sent away empty. Never enough, how could
there be enough of this happiness? This is the paradise of the good smell.
But the words—smell, nose—are comic. And the comic is the sign of falling
short of the ideal. Paradise does not fall short, though. You fall into the
good smell, you fall and fall and the fall is wonderful, there is no end to it,
you fall, but you are carried, together. As a child, there was no desire for
me to be apart from my mother. In her last years, I could barely bring myself
to be with her for half an hour a week. The smell in the nursing home, urinous,
ruinous.
I put my nose to my wrist. Arpège. The music: the arpeggio. I can follow
the scent, like music, beyond the body, beyond words. I don’t need to be
in the ruinous place. I can be in the paradise with the mother I desire.
Mother, I want to be in the place where I was with you and you smelled so beautifully
of the large world, of glittering cities, of furs and laces, of drinks in sparkling
glasses, of candlelights, mirrors where women with piled hair are reflected from the
funnel-shaped darkness of formal rooms.
Where are we, Mother?
I can ask that question, but of course I will hear only silence. My mother
has no voice. No words. The words must be mine. I must do the talking. I
must say where we are.
We are in a room. We enter it, leaning on each other’s arms.
My mother is not limping. Or her limping doesn’t matter.
Is that applause? Are we greeted by applause by the people sitting at the
glittering tables? Are they saying, At last, you are with us, you have always been
one of us, we have been waiting? You are the most glamorous, the most shimmering,
the most radiant of us all.
In our ears, at our throats, jewels sparkle. We are dressed for the ball.
Beautiful mother.
Beautiful girl.
Where are we, Mother?
Or is there no need to name?
But why not name it; there is nothing to be afraid of here.
Here where we are:
Paradise.
Europe.
Paris.
Home.
Where we belong.
If I had been able to speak like this to my mother, words rooted in the
body but beyond the degraded and degrading flesh, would it have changed
anything? Prevented anything? Rage, humiliation, stupor, degradation, or
despair? It doesn’t matter; I was never able to speak to her like that. With
that kind of love. As it was, the love I had for her, love mixed with hate, the
words I could speak to her, words of love and hate, were attached to the
body that degraded rather than evaporated, like the scent of her perfume.
And so nothing was prevented by my love. My impure love. I couldn’t prevent
her fate, or ours, any more than I could have prevented the perfume
eating the varnish of her dresser. Something was eaten, eaten away. There
was nothing I could do about it. My love prevented nothing. Not one thing.
But if I speak of her, if I write about her, it is possible that I can prevent
her disappearance. She will not evaporate, like a scent that is absorbed in
air, into a nullity. My mother will not be nothing.
But no, it isn’t words that will perform the miracle I need. There are no
words that I can use to call her.
I put my nose to my wrist. And she is risen from the dead. She is risen
indeed.
Mary Gordon is the author of seven books of fiction, among them the novels Final Payments,
The Company of Women, and, most recently, Pearl.
This article is copyrighted by the author. It may not be reproduced without permission of the publisher.
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